UV light induces multiple damages including protein oxidation on skin. Oxidized proteins if not degraded by the proteasome would eventually accumulate causing metabolic damage, elastosis and pigment formation such as lipofuscin. During ageing, the activity of the proteasome decreases dramatically together with enzymes that protect from oxidation and as a result oxidized proteins accumulate. We have investigated a combination of Panthenyl triacetate and Ethyl linoleate (bioactive complex) to fight against protein oxidation. This complex when tested at 3% on human skin biopsies showed statistically significant protection from UV (UVA + UVB)‐induced protein oxidation both in a 24‐h pre‐treatment before UV irradiation (72% protection, P < 0.05) and immediately after irradiation (78% protection, P < 0.05). UV light also induced a significant decrease of mRNA for protein repairing enzymes, such as Methionine Sulfoxide Reductase (MSR). The complex, given both pre‐ and post‐irradiation, stimulated the repairing enzyme expression. We can suggest utilization of this new complex to prevent accumulation of oxidized protein as a result of skin photo‐ageing and to prevent stratum corneum dehydration, skin elastosis and pigmentation formation (age spots).
K. Schweikert, F. Gafner, G. Dell'acqua
International Journal of Cosmetic Science