The application of carnation in perfumery
Published Nov 1, 1985 · D. P. Anonis
Flavour and Fragrance Journal
6
Citations
1
Influential Citations
Abstract
Carnation, Dianthus caryophyllus L., which originated in the Mediterranean countries, holds an important place in perfumery. Southern France, Italy, Egypt, and Kenya are now the main sources of carnation flowers for perfumery use. The flowers are extracted with volatile solvents, yielding carnation concrete, which on treatment with alcohol, gives carnation absolute. Until the 1930s, only a few components of steam-distilled carnation oil were known. Carnation was not the subject of further research until in the 1980s over a hundred components were revealed in the steam-distilled oil and in Egyptian carnation absolute. The difference in chemical compositions of absolutes and steam-distilled oils, obtained from flowers cultivated in Kenya, Egypt and in South of France was also shown. Carnation absolute is very expensive, therefore synthetic carnation compounds have been developed, the main components being eugenol and its derivatives combined with salicylates, benzoates and rose components. Few illustrative conventional carnation formulas are shown. More recent carnation compounds include newer aromatics, amongst which cis-hex-3-enyl esters are important. At the beginning of this century, pure concentrated carnation essence were used as perfumes. Later, carnation absolute served as modifier in many perfume compositions. Early carnation fragrances were based mostly on a few natural perfume materials, including carnation absolute. Later, a few essential oils and aromatics were added as they became available. Examples of carnation perfumes are given. In the late 1930s, alcohol-free perfume concentrates were developed, among them carnation. Spicy notes are appealing to men, and many men's fragrances, ranging from the early to the sophisticated modern formulations contain carnation notes. Carnation perfumes have been used in brilliantines, hair oils, talcum powders and soaps. Apart from soap perfumes, they contained small amounts of carnation absolute. Carnation fragrances are still used to perfume colored soaps. In modern cosmetic perfumes, carnation is mostly used as a modifying component of a fragrance to give a warm spicy floral note. Carnation absolute is used today only in de luxe fragrances, because of its high price.* Synthetic carnation compounds or their components have replaced the absolute in less expensive perfumes. Efforts are being made to introduce a lower priced carnation ingredient, cultivated and produced in Kenya, to encourage its use in perfumery. The carnation odor is important in both women's and men's fragrances, and it will remain an indispensable component of fragrances created in the future.