What makes the waves at the beach?
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Understanding the Formation of Waves at the Beach
Wave Generation and Propagation
Ocean Wave Formation
Waves at the beach are primarily generated by wind blowing across the surface of the ocean. The energy from the wind is transferred to the water, creating waves that travel across the ocean until they reach the shore. These waves can vary greatly in size and energy depending on the wind speed, duration, and the distance over which the wind blows (fetch).
Wave Refraction and Transformation
As waves approach the shore, they undergo a process called wave refraction. This occurs because the part of the wave in shallower water slows down more than the part in deeper water, causing the wave to bend and align more parallel to the shore. This refraction is influenced by the underwater topography, such as the presence of submarine canyons, ridges, and the slope of the beach. The refraction process can lead to significant variations in wave height along the shore, contributing to the complex patterns of waves observed at the beach.
Wave Breaking and Beach Interaction
Wave Breaking Mechanisms
When waves move into shallower water near the shore, they increase in height and eventually break. This breaking occurs when the wave's crest becomes too steep and unstable, often when the horizontal particle velocity at the wave crest matches or exceeds the wave celerity. The type of breaking wave—plunging, spilling, or surging—depends on the slope of the beach and the wave's characteristics.
Energy Dissipation and Sediment Transport
Upon breaking, waves dissipate a significant amount of their energy through processes such as friction, turbulence, and the movement of sediments. The energy dissipation is influenced by the beach slope and the wave height, with steeper slopes generally leading to higher energy dissipation . This energy loss is crucial for the transport and redistribution of sediments along the beach, contributing to beach erosion and the formation of various coastal features .
Infragravity Waves and Their Impact
Generation and Characteristics
Infragravity (IG) waves are long-period waves with frequencies lower than those of wind-generated waves. They are typically generated by groups of shorter waves and can be modulated by the breaking of these shorter waves. IG waves play a significant role in coastal dynamics, especially on gently sloping beaches where they can dominate sediment transport and influence groundwater flows.
Effects on Coastal Environments
IG waves can have profound impacts on coastal environments. They can enhance longshore and cross-shore mixing, modulate current velocities in rip channels, and contribute to dune erosion and barrier breaching during storm conditions. Additionally, IG waves can propagate into tidal inlets and back-barrier lagoons, affecting sediment transport and current patterns.
Conclusion
The waves at the beach are a result of complex interactions between wind energy, underwater topography, and coastal features. From their generation in the open ocean to their transformation and breaking near the shore, waves undergo various processes that shape the coastal environment. Understanding these processes is essential for predicting and managing coastal erosion, sediment transport, and the overall dynamics of beach ecosystems.
Sources and full results
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