The Lagrangian solution and experiment data for breaking waves on sloping beaches agree reasonably well, with the Lagrangian solution predicting wave breaking criteria and experiments confirming experimental data.

Evolution of breaking waves on sloping beaches

Beach slope and distance from shore to breakers correlate with breaker height, wave period, and grain diameter, with energy lost in breaking, friction, turbulence, and moving material accounting for 25% to 50% of incident wave energy.

Beaches Produced by Waves of Low Phase Difference

Bottom friction can significantly contribute to wave absorption on beaches, even without breaking, if the parameter (3)1212g2 is not too small.

Wave reflexion from beaches

Wave refraction is the primary mechanism controlling changes in wave height along beaches, and sediment transport is influenced by the existing refraction pattern.

Refraction of Ocean Waves: A Process Linking Underwater Topography to Beach Erosion

Infragravity waves, driven by groupings in incident short waves, can significantly impact coastal hydro-sedimentary dynamics, affecting currents, sediment transport, and dune erosion.

Infragravity waves: From driving mechanisms to impacts

The ratio of seaward to shoreward propagating energy in ocean surface gravity waves on a natural beach decreases with wave frequency and height, and increases with beach-face slope, with significant reflection occurring at steep beach faces and low-energy, low-frequency swell.

Reflection of Ocean Surface Gravity Waves from a Natural Beach

Scale effects in wave heights, set-up, and vertical profiles are virtually absent in the range of 0.1 m to 1.5 m, when measuring waves breaking on a beach.

A Scale Comparison of Waves Breaking on a Beach

The depth of sand disturbance on beaches increases with wave height and energy, and is greatest in shallow water near the break-point, with coarser sand causing greater disturbance.

Depth of Disturbance of Sand on Sea Beaches by Waves

The study provides equations for small amplitude waves in varying depth water, and numerical solutions for a solitary wave on a beach with uniform slope.

Long waves on a beach

Permeability of beaches, influenced by particle diameter, can significantly reduce the impact of tsunami-like waves on coastal structures.

Incompressible SPH simulation of solitary wave propagation on permeable beaches

Waves can climb a sloping beach without breaking, and formulae for shoreline motions and specific wave-forms are presented.

Water waves of finite amplitude on a sloping beach

Edge waves can be generated by wind, potentially using the'maser' mechanism suggested by Longuet-Higgins under favorable conditions.

Can edge waves be generated by wind?

Wave height and wave length determine the depth and location of scour on flat sand beaches in front of sea walls, with the "ultimate" depth being a function of wave height.

Scour of flat sand beaches due to wave action in front of sea walls

This study confirms shallow-water results for beach angles  = /2N, demonstrates the effect of larger beach angles, and provides a more complete discussion of the problem.

On the excitation of edge waves on beaches

Wave run-up on beaches can significantly impact groundwater flow and water table fluctuations, and this study developed a linear system of equations to better understand this phenomenon.

Run-up of dispersive and breaking waves on beaches

Internal gravity waves in the South China Sea begin as sinusoidal disturbances and generate turbulence levels over 10,000 times those in the open ocean, affecting ocean processes and posing hazards for man-made structures.

The formation and fate of internal waves in the South China Sea

Ocean waves breaking on a beach are analogous to shock waves in pulsating star atmospheres, with similar velocity discontinuities and potential for ocean observations to help solve shock phenomena in stellar pulsation.

Shock Waves in Stellar Atmospheres and Breaking Waves on an Ocean Beach

Beach cusp formation is influenced by wave height, swash zone width, and beach slope, with a close correlation between cusp spacing and wave height.

Sea Waves and Beach Cusps

Beach cusps are shaped by subharmonic edge waves and synchronous potential edge waves, with feedback from cusps limiting their growth and impacting longshore periodic morphologies.

Edge waves and beach cusps

This study provides a general solution for the linear long-wave equation on a uniformly sloping beach, enabling numerical results for specific shapes and time histories of ground motion.

Long wave generation on a sloping beach

These studies suggest that waves at the beach are influenced by factors such as beach slope, wave refraction, bottom friction, infragravity waves, and sediment characteristics.