What is the evidence of cosmetic oil and skin Absorption?
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Evidence of Cosmetic Oil and Skin Absorption
Introduction to Cosmetic Oils and Skin Absorption
Cosmetic oils are widely used in skincare products for their various benefits, including moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. Understanding how these oils penetrate the skin is crucial for evaluating their efficacy and safety. This article synthesizes research findings on the skin absorption of different cosmetic oils, including essential oils, mineral oils, and vegetable oils.
Essential Oils and Skin Permeation
Australian Tea Tree Oil (TTO)
Australian tea tree oil (TTO) is a popular essential oil known for its antimicrobial properties. Research has shown that the main compound in TTO, terpinen-4-ol, can permeate human skin. In vitro studies using Franz diffusion cells revealed that the flux values of TTO in different semisolid preparations varied, with the highest permeation observed in an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion (0.067 microl/cm² h) and the lowest in an ambiphilic cream (0.022 microl/cm² h). These findings indicate that the formulation of the product significantly affects the skin absorption of TTO.
Mineral Oils and Dermal Penetration
Mineral Oils and Waxes
Mineral oils and waxes are commonly used in cosmetic products due to their excellent skin tolerance and protective properties. A comprehensive review of 13 in vivo and in vitro studies found that these substances are primarily adsorbed to the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the skin, with only a minor fraction reaching deeper skin layers. Importantly, there is no evidence that mineral oils and waxes are percutaneously absorbed to a degree that would make them systemically available, suggesting they do not pose a health risk when used in cosmetic products.
Vegetable Oils and Enhanced Skin Absorption
Nanostructured Lipid Carriers (NLC)
Recent advancements in cosmetic formulations have led to the development of nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) that enhance the transdermal absorption of bioactive compounds from vegetable oils. Studies have shown that NLCs based on rosehip oil or black cumin oil, combined with plant extracts like carrot and marigold, significantly improve skin hydration and elasticity. These formulations also exhibit strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, making them effective for treating skin conditions such as inflammation and acne. The enhanced absorption and therapeutic efficacy of these NLCs highlight their potential for use in advanced cosmetic products.
Conclusion
The evidence indicates that the skin absorption of cosmetic oils varies significantly depending on the type of oil and its formulation. Essential oils like TTO can permeate the skin effectively, especially when formulated in certain types of emulsions. Mineral oils and waxes, on the other hand, primarily remain on the skin's surface and do not pose a systemic health risk. Advanced formulations like NLCs can enhance the absorption and efficacy of vegetable oils, offering promising benefits for skincare. These insights are crucial for the development of safe and effective cosmetic products.
Sources and full results
Most relevant research papers on this topic
In vitro studies on release and human skin permeation of Australian tea tree oil (TTO) from topical formulations.
Review of data on the dermal penetration of mineral oils and waxes used in cosmetic applications.
Synergism of plant extract and vegetable oils-based lipid nanocarriers: Emerging trends in development of advanced cosmetic prototype products.
Percutaneous absorption of parabens from cosmetic formulations
Neutral Oil-Incorporated Liposomal Nanocarrier for Increased Skin Delivery of Ascorbic Acid
Natural cold pressed oils as cosmetic products
In vitro and in vivo percutaneous absorption of retinol from cosmetic formulations: significance of the skin reservoir and prediction of systemic absorption.
Evidence for cosmetics as a source of mineral oil contamination in women.
In vivo and in vitro skin absorption of lipophilic compounds, dibutyl phthalate, farnesol and geraniol in the hairless guinea pig.
Comparative study on the in vitro human skin permeation of monoterpenes and phenylpropanoids applied in rose oil and in form of neat single compounds.
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