Cinnamic acid derivatives in cosmetics: current use and future prospects

doi:10.1111/ics.12471

Paper

Cinnamic acid derivatives in cosmetics: current use and future prospects

Published Aug 1, 2018 · Agnieszka Gunia-Krzyżak, K. Słoczyńska, Justyna Popiół

International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Q2 SJR score

121

Citations

4

Influential Citations

Full textSemantic Scholar

Abstract

Cinnamic acid derivatives are widely used in cosmetics and possess various functions. This group of compounds includes both naturally occurring and synthetic substances. On the basis of the Cosmetic Ingredient Database (CosIng) and available literature, this review summarizes their functions in cosmetics, including their physicochemical and biological properties as well as reported adverse effects. A perfuming function is typical of many derivatives of cinnamaldehyde, cinnamyl alcohol, dihydrocinnamyl alcohol and cinnamic acid itself; these substances are commonly used in cosmetics all over the world. Some of them show allergic and photoallergic potential, resulting in restrictions in maximum concentrations and/or a requirement to indicate the presence of some substances in the list of ingredients when their concentrations exceed certain fixed values in a cosmetic product. Another important function of cinnamic acid derivatives in cosmetics is UV protection. Ester derivatives such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (octinoxate), isoamyl p‐methoxycinnamte (amiloxiate), octocrylene and cinoxate are used in cosmetics all over the world as UV filters. However, their maximum concentrations in cosmetic products are restricted due to their adverse effects, which include contact and a photocontact allergies, phototoxic contact dermatitis, contact dermatitis, estrogenic modulation and generation of reactive oxygen species. Other rarely utilized functions of cinnamic acid derivatives are as an antioxidant, in skin conditioning, hair conditioning, as a tonic and in antimicrobial activities. Moreover, some currently investigated natural and synthetic derivatives of cinnamic acid have shown skin lightening and anti‐ageing properties. Some of them may become new cosmetic ingredients in the future. In particular, 4‐hydroxycinnamic acid, which is currently indexed as a skin‐conditioning cosmetics ingredient, has been widely tested in vitro and in vivo as a new drug candidate for the treatment of hyperpigmentation.

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Study Snapshot

Cinnamic acid derivatives are widely used in cosmetics for fragrance, UV protection, and skin lightening, with potential for future use as new cosmetic ingredients.

PopulationOlder adults (50-71 years)

Sample size24

MethodsObservational

OutcomesBody Mass Index projections

ResultsSocial networks mitigate obesity in older groups.

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Cinnamic acid derivatives in cosmetics: current use and future prospects

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References

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Yeast cells can produce valuable aromatic compounds like trans-cinnamic acid and hydrocinnamyl alcohol, with potential applications in the flavor, fragrance, and cosmetic industries.

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Hydroxycinnamic acids and their derivatives show high cosmetic potential as anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, and UV protective ingredients, but require microencapsulation for sustained release due to poor stability.

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Genetically engineering various microbial hosts, such as Escherichia coli and Pseudomonas putida, enables the biotechnological production of cinnamic and p-hydroxycinnamic acids, with potential applications in thermoplastics, flavoring,

Citations

Evaluation of the Antibacterial Activity of Cinnamic Acid and Its Derivatives: Synergistic Effects with Cloxacillin

Cinnamic acid and its derivatives show strong anti-biofilm activity against Staphylococcus epidermidis, potentially offering a new therapeutic approach for multidrug-resistant strains.

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Novel cinnamic acid sugar esters show potential as UVB filters with higher Sun Protection Factors and greater antioxidant properties, making them suitable for use in sunscreens and skincare products.

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Alkylated hydroxy cinnamates and cinnamides show potential as antioxidants, antimicrobials, and biopesticides, with potential applications in biomedical, cosmetic, and agriculture fields.

Cinnamic Acid Derivatives as Potential Multifunctional Agents in Cosmetic Formulations Used for Supporting the Treatment of Selected Dermatoses

Cinnamic acid derivatives are used in cosmetic formulations as fragrance ingredients and support the treatment of selected dermatoses, including acne, atopic dermatitis, and hyperpigmentation.

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