Check out this answer from Consensus:
The validity of anti-aging skincare claims varies depending on the ingredients and the rigor of the studies supporting them. Functional compounds, botanical extracts, and hyaluronic acid have shown promise in improving skin appearance and reducing signs of aging. However, more high-quality, long-term studies are needed to substantiate these claims fully. Consumers should look for products backed by scientific evidence and be cautious of exaggerated marketing claims.
The skincare industry is replete with products claiming to have anti-aging benefits. These claims often promise to reduce wrinkles, improve skin elasticity, and provide a more youthful appearance. But do these claims hold any scientific validity? This article explores the evidence behind anti-aging skincare products, drawing from multiple research studies to assess their efficacy.
Mechanisms of Skin Aging
Skin aging is influenced by both intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Intrinsic aging is a natural process driven by genetic and biological factors, while extrinsic aging is accelerated by environmental factors such as ultraviolet (UV) radiation, pollution, and lifestyle choices like smoking2 6. These factors contribute to the degradation of the extracellular matrix (ECM), leading to visible signs of aging such as wrinkles, sagging skin, and uneven complexion8.
Efficacy of Anti-Aging Ingredients
Functional Compounds
A study evaluated an anti-aging cream enriched with functional compounds and found it to be effective in increasing collagen and elastin production, reducing inflammation, and providing photoprotection1. This suggests that certain compounds can indeed support skin structure and reduce signs of aging.
Botanical Extracts
Botanical extracts have also been studied for their anti-aging properties. A systematic review found that extracts like date kernel, cork, soy, Rosaceae, and peony showed some efficacy in reducing skin wrinkling and aging5. However, the quality of these studies was generally poor, indicating a need for more rigorous research.
Hyaluronic Acid
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a well-known ingredient in anti-aging skincare. A clinical study demonstrated that a novel form of HA, when used both topically and as a food supplement, significantly improved skin moisturization, elasticity, and firmness10. This dual approach appears to enhance the anti-aging effects more than either method alone.
Clinical Studies and Real-World Evidence
Double-Blind Trials
A double-blind, randomized controlled trial showed that an anti-aging product could stimulate the deposition of fibrillin-1, a protein that supports skin structure, thereby improving photoaged skin4. This type of rigorous study design provides strong evidence for the product’s efficacy.
Open-Label Studies
An open-label study on a new facial cream containing carnosine, Alteromonas ferment extract, and hyaluronic acid showed significant improvements in skin hydration, firmness, and elasticity after 56 days of use2. Participants also reported a visible tightening and more elastic skin, supporting the product’s anti-aging claims.
Multifaceted Protection
A novel water-based anti-aging suncare formulation was found to provide comprehensive protection against UV radiation and pollution. The product significantly reduced oxidative stress markers and improved skin firmness and pigmentation7. This highlights the importance of multifunctional products in combating various aging factors.
Natural vs. Synthetic Ingredients
The trend towards natural skincare is growing, driven by concerns over the harmful effects of synthetic chemicals. Natural ingredients like aloin, ginsenoside, and curcumin have shown potential in protecting the skin from aging by scavenging free radicals and preventing trans-epidermal water loss8. These findings suggest that natural products can be effective, but they require scientific validation to confirm their benefits.
Do any ‘anti-aging’ skincare claims have validity?
Angela Tewari has answered Likely
An expert from King’s College London in Dermatology, Anti-Ageing
As a qualified Consultant Dermatologist with research expertise on the effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin, I am always curious when hearing about skin-care products that claim ‘Anti-aging’ benefits. Are there any scientific basis to these claims?
Sun-induced ageing (photoaging) mostly occurs at exposed sites like the face, neck and hands. Why? Because when the skin is hit with UV radiation, molecules in the top layer of the skin produce something called ‘singlet oxygen’. This leads to an oxidation cascade that damages nucleic acids, proteins, and lipids that can result in skin cancer and photoaging.
Photoaging has a number of effects, including a thinning of the epidermis or top layer of the skin, a thinning of the dermis and a loss of elasticity (loss of elastin) – which results in the development of wrinkles and uneven pigmentation.
Collagen 1 is the most common protein in the skin, acting like a glue to give it strength. Elastin is a different protein that helps provide skin with the ability to stretch and snap back. Other protein/glucose containing substances known as proteoglycans bulk up the dermis layer of the skin. Collagen, elastin and proteoglycans all degrade with excessive UV radiation and age.
With hundreds of skincare products, creams and supplements – what should I use? Here is a breakdown of the evidence for some popular formulations. Note that higher price tends not to be associated with better efficacy.
1- Creams containing Alpha-hydroxy acids
Summary:
Evidence for anti-aging properties (skin hydration, keratolytic, collagen 1 depostion in the dermis.
Alpha-hydroxy acids, such as lactic, glycolic and citric acids, are natural ingredients that come from fruits and milk sugars. These acids lower the pH of the skin, inhibits kinases and transferases which contributes to desmosome resolution and desquamation of the stratum corneum. This keratolytic action gives a brightening effect to the skin.
One particular paper[1] showed that the application of 25% glycolic acid on the forearm daily for 6 months resulted in upper dermal thickening, an increased production of collagen and remodelled elastin. This probably relates to the effects of glycolic acid on the skin, stimulating down stream changes. Some papers talk about local changes to the skin causing down stream gene changes, the evidence of this is unclear.
In terms of side effects, glycolic acid will increase sensitivity of the skin to sunshine which probably relates to the cleavage of the stratum corneum and ability of UV to penetrate deeper. There is no increased sun damage after glycolic usage despite some articles suggesting that the tolerance to sunshine is less, eg after the use of a glycolic acid, the dose needed to produce a sunburn reaction is less. There is no evidence that glycolic causes uneven pigmentation.
Studies have shown[2] that the use of a glycolic acid once a day for a 6 week period shows histological changes where there is a reduction in melanin pigmentation in the basal epidermal layers of the skin, and also increased collagen 1 and procollagen 1. These changes are replicated with lactic acid and citric acid, 20% citric acid can increase glycosaminoglycans in the skin and increase thickness of epidermis.
It has been shown[3] to have anti-inflammatory and photoprotective effects. UVB-irradiation activated the nuclear factor-kappa B (NF-kB) pathway and releases proinflammatory cytokines (e.g., interleukin (IL)-6, IL-8 and IL-1β. Even at a 1% glycolic daily appears to appease the UVB induced proinflammatory response with a reduced expression of IL1, 6,8 and TNF after 10 days of daily treatment in mice, lactic acid derivates can also suppress UVB induced IL6 production.
Too high a concentration has more of an irritant effect on the skin, with increased desquamation and increased redness.
2- Vitamin C, Ferulic acid
Summary:
Evidence for collagen growth and plumping up of the skin, will help reduce pigmentation. No evidence for long term effects once treatment is completed
Vitamin C is the most abundant antioxidant in the skin, and L-ascorbic acid is the most active form. Vitamin C is found in various fruit and vegetables and is a cofactor for collagen synthesis which means it increases collagen synthesis, stabilises collagen fibers, decreases collagen degradation and has been shown to reduce melanogenesis and pigmentation. In order to stabilise it, it needs to have an acidic pH. One way to do this is by the addition of ferrulic acid. Other more stable forms include ascorbyl 6 palmitate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.
Antioxidants are commonly claimed to help fight cell damage from free radicals, which are molecules that could injure cells and increase inflammation. In response to UVR, certain molecules of the skin produce free radicals. Vitamin C neutralizes oxidative stress caused by solar radiation pollution and smoking which switches on cytokine pathways that lead to loss of dermal collagen, irregularly deposited elastin and epidermal thinning. Concentrations at 20% produce skin irritation, so 10-20% concentrations are typically used.
Studies have shown that the application of vitamin C reduces the amount of erythema produced by sunshine. Erythema is a marker of DNA damage. The effects of oral supplementation are not clear. Application of 10% topical vitamin C has been shown to reduce UVB-induced erythema by 52 % and apoptotic sunburn cell formation by 40 to 60 %[4] and it seems that in a 15% formulation with 0.5% ferulic acid and 1% vitamin E can further reduce the UVR induced inflammatory response, which means this also reduces the production of the skin cancer precursors (CPDs). CPDs trigger enzymes that break down dermal collagen (MMP1) hence by reducing CPDs, we reduce the amount of collagen breakdown.
Ferrulic acid is a stabilising agent, maintaining a low pH by donating Hydrogens (and hence electrons) and thus acting as an antioxidant itself.
3- Vitamin E
Summary: Evidence to suggest that it may help with redness on the skin, and as an adjuvant with vitamin C derivatives it can have an additional antioxidant effect. Limited evidence available for anti-aging changes on the skin.
Vitamin E, occurring naturally in food in the form of α-Tocopherol oxidizes slowly when exposed to air thus compromising its stability. Despite it being shown in human skin to prevent UVB induced sunburn cell formation (via inhibition of prostaglandin 2 and nitric oxide) very few studies show effectiveness in topical preparations. It also has a role in epidermal protection from oxidative stress.
4- Retinoids/retinol
Summary: excellent evidence for superficial cuts ours anti-aging Properties retinoic acid>retinol. Limited evidence for 0.3% differin showing improvement in skin texture, and hydration.
Cardinal work from the 1990s described the pathogenesis of suninduced ageing (Fisher et al NEJM 1996) and also the molecular effects of retinoids (retinoic acid) on the skin in inducing procollagen 1 and collagen synthesis and blocks enzymes (MMP1) that are stimulated by sunshine and break down collagen in the skin. The histological effects are dramatic and retinoic acid is a well documented effective preventative and therapeutic intervention for skin ageing.
Retinol is a precursor of retinoic acid and comparative studies of 0.1% retinol and 0.1% retinoic acid daily for 4 weeks increases collagen production in the dermis, increases epidermal thickening and improves the microenvironment by stimulating endothelial cell proliferation which improves the local blood supply. Comparatively retinoic acid (all-trans retinoic acid) produces 2.5 fold more collagen 1 then retinol although other studies suggest that retinoic acid can be 20 times more powerful than retinol.
What about adapalene? Normally 0.1% adapalene is used for acne. 0.3% has been used clinically and daily for a 6 month period, with a clinical improvement in patient skin wrinkles appearance (perioral and perorbital) in 40 Latin American women[5] The 0.1% works as a keratinolytic and increases epidermal turnover and is helpful in acne.
5- Nicotinamide
Summary: Evidence at 4% to help with skin dyspigmentation, can improve redness and itch on the skin
Nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD) is a coenzyme central to cellular production of energy in the body. The name of its oxidised form is NAD+. NAD+ is needed for ATP production. Studies in mice show that NAD supplementation can increase lifespan however there are currently no long term studies in humans suggesting the benefit of supplementation. The use of oral daily supplementation of nicotinamide (500mg bd) in patients with non melanoma skin cancer (BCC and SCC) shows a reduction in the number of new cancers by up to 30% over a one year period. This probably relates to the ability of Nicotinamide to reduce[6] DNA damage in the skin by enhanced DNA repair.
UVB depletes NAD+ an essential coenzyme required in the production of ATP which is needed to repair DNA damage in the skin. Nicotinamide makes more ATP available and enhances the DNA repair process and hence reducing the susceptibility of the skin cells to UV induced damage.
Nicotinic acid is an alternative form of vitamin B3 and has been used for decades to treat CVS disease. Nicotinic acid causes flushing, nausea and vomiting, headaches and other side effects include itchy skin. Fewer side effects are reported with nicotinamide. It also down regulates UVB induced inflammation.
Topical nicotinamide is helpful as it has an inflammatory action and also able to decrease the transfer of melanosomes (pigment containing granules) in the basal epidermis which means it is a useful antipigmentation strategy. Indeed compared to the gold standard of hydroquinone which inhibits tyrosinase enzyme which is needed to produce melanin pigment, and is also associated with irreversible blue/black pigment deposition with long term use, over an 8 week period, the daily use of 4% topical nicotinamide applied daily resulted in a 62% decrease in pigmentation compared to 4% hydroquinone which resulted in 70% reduction[6]. Nicotinamide will be an excellent alternative to pigmentation therapy in the future.
6 Polypodium leucotomas
Summary: Can improve collagen expression in the dermis and reduce cutaneous inflammation.
This is otherwise known as Fernblock and contains a high amount of phenolic compounds that inhibits the generation of free oxygen radicals and protects the endogenous skin natural antioxidant systems, i.e., CAT, GSH, and GSSR.
Fernblock® is a controlled aqueous extract of the leaves of Polypodium leucotomos (also known as Phlebodium aureum) which is native to Central and South America. It has been used to treat skin diseases like psoriasis and atopic dermatitis in traditional medicine and more recently is marketed in topical formations. Oral intake of 240 mg of Polypodium Leucotomas twice daily (for 60 days) is likely safe[7] and significantly reduces UVR-induced skin damage as it reduces the risk of sunburn compared to those individuals not on this. It reduces erythema and the threshold to burning and hence reduce levels of DNA damage markers.
There is also in vitro work [8] that suggests that it can exhibit antiaging properties with increased expression of collagen 1, III, V and decreased MMP1 expression. There is also decreased lipid oxidation which means it also has antioxidant properties. Topical preparations are helpful in those patients who have a sun allergy known as polymorphic light eruption and probably works by decreasing the local skin inflammatory response.
7 peptides
Summary: Limited evidence as an antiageing strategy at present, Evidence still accumulating.
A newly developed synthetic peptide has been investigated[10] in a group of 20 healthy women volunteers where application twice daily for 4 weeks reduces the clinical appearance of wrinkles9. Limited studies beyond that.
8 hyaluronic acid (HA)
Summary: May improvement skin appearance, effect appears temporary
This is a non-protein glycosaminoglycan and a major component of the the paddingin the skin and is also present in bone marrow, cartilage and the synovial fluid (the shock absorption around joints). HA has been found at the periphery and at the interface of collagen and elastin fibers in the skin where it facilitates holding collagen and elastin in a proper configuration. In the aged skin, these connections with HA are absent, which may contribute to the disorganization of collagen and elastin fibres and hence the use of topical and injectable preparations of HA.
A clinical trial 10 involving 76 female aged between 30 and 60 years with periocular wrinkles applied 0.1% cream formulation twice daily for a period of 60 days. They observed greater improvements in the skin hydration level, skin elasticity and reduction in periocular wrinkles particularly with the smaller molecular weight HA which probably relates to the superior percutaneous absorption of ultra-small HA molecules
Daily application of HA incorporated cream causes significant reduction [11] in depth of wrinkles and improves skin elasticity and tightness. In this study, authors have tested four topical cream formulations containing HA on 20 women with periorbital wrinkles for 3 months. After treatment period, they observed significant improvement in skin elasticity and tightness by 13–30%, significant reduction in wrinkle depth by 10–20%, and improved hydration level in all treated patients. There is an element of absorption and improvement in the padding of the skin however this is shortlived and sustainable only with continued application.
9 Bakuchiol
Summary: Thought to behave like retinol and appears to improve hyperpigmentation and superficial skin wrinking appearance. More evidence needed.
Bakuchiol is a purified antioxidant found in the seeds of the Indian plant Psoralea corylifolia (babchi). Antiproliferative, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant activity has been reported.
Bakuchiol is thought to be an analogue of retinol and a randomised controlled trial[12] applying 0.5% bakuchiol cream over a 12 week period resulted in decreased hyperpigmentation on the skin and seems to have an effect on wrinkling.
Bakuchiol is comparable to retinol but is not a vitamin A preparation. It is not associated with the retinoid side effects of local irritation and mild erythema peeling of the stratum corneum peeling of the skin. Bakuchiol does not increase photosensitivity of the skin as retinoids do.
10- Reservatol.
Summary: Has antioxidant properties and may have some antiageing impact on the skin. No current evidence.
This is a plant based phytoestrogens have been reported to contain several bioactive molecules, mostly found in soy, vegetables and fruits. These compounds can be classified into four main groups, such as isoflavonoids, flavonoids, stilbenes and lignans. Trans-resveratrol is a stilbene and can thereotically act as an antioxidant (by donating electrons) but there is no formal evidence for its effects on the skin. It is incorporated in a number of facial skin creams.
Takeaways
Evidence based decisions are a cardinal part of medical dermatology practice. Evidence for use of topical preparations as an antiageing strategy is accumulating however we still lack strong evidence for some of the products labelled as cosmeticules on the market. This article will help shed light on what to think about including in your anti-ageing regime.
References:
- Sharad J. Glycolic acid peel therapy – a current review. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol 2013;6:281-8. doi: 10.2147/ccid.S34029 [published Online First: 2014/01/09]
- Tang SC, Yang JH. Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin. Molecules 2018;23(4) doi: 10.3390/molecules23040863 [published Online First: 2018/04/13]
- Tang SC, Liao PY, Hung SJ, et al. Topical application of glycolic acid suppresses the UVB induced IL-6, IL-8, MCP-1 and COX-2 inflammation by modulating NF-κB signaling pathway in keratinocytes and mice skin. J Dermatol Sci 2017;86(3):238-48. doi: 10.1016/j.jdermsci.2017.03.004 [published Online First: 2017/03/24]
- Al-Niaimi F, Chiang NYZ. Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol 2017;10(7):14-17. [published Online First: 2017/11/07]
- Herane MI, Orlandi C, Zegpi E, et al. Clinical efficacy of adapalene (Differin®) 0.3% gel in Chilean women with cutaneous photoaging. Journal of Dermatological Treatment 2012;23(1):57-64. doi: 10.3109/09546634.2011.631981
- Navarrete-Solís J, Castanedo-Cázares JP, Torres-Álvarez B, et al. A Double-Blind, Randomized Clinical Trial of Niacinamide 4% versus Hydroquinone 4% in the Treatment of Melasma. Dermatol Res Pract 2011;2011:379173. doi: 10.1155/2011/379173 [published Online First: 2011/08/09]
- Nestor MS, Berman B, Swenson N. Safety and Efficacy of Oral Polypodium leucotomos Extract in Healthy Adult Subjects. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol 2015;8(2):19-23. [published Online First: 2015/03/06]
- Berman B, Ellis C, Elmets C. Polypodium Leucotomos–An Overview of Basic Investigative Findings. J Drugs Dermatol 2016;15(2):224-8. [published Online First: 2016/02/18]
- Blanes-Mira C, Clemente J, Jodas G, et al. A synthetic hexapeptide (Argireline) with antiwrinkle activity. Int J Cosmet Sci 2002;24(5):303-10. doi: 10.1046/j.1467-2494.2002.00153.x [published Online First: 2008/05/24]
- Pavicic T, Gauglitz GG, Lersch P, et al. Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. J Drugs Dermatol 2011;10(9):990-1000. [published Online First: 2011/11/05]
- J P, H S, S S, et al. Anti-wrinkle creams with hyaluronic acid: How effective are they?
. Project: Aesthetic medicine 2016
- Dhaliwal S, Rybak I, Ellis SR, et al. Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. The British journal of dermatology 2019;180(2):289-96. doi: 10.1111/bjd.16918 [published Online First: 2018/06/28]
Do any ‘anti-aging’ skincare claims have validity?
Desmond Tobin has answered Uncertain
An expert from University College Dublin in Dermatology
The quality of skin care interventions can be hugely variable; from those containing no ‘bio-available’ active ingredients to those that may have significant (and even technologically-advanced) power. It is important to note that the vast bulk of skin aging is due to unprotected sun exposure, so limiting this by using sunscreen skincare will provide ‘anti-aging’ protection for the skin. Other skin care products many contain active ingredients to boost the synthesis of skin structural proteins like collagen, fibrillin etc. or to reduce age-related pigmentation spots, although these may be at too low a concentration in skincare products to make a detectable difference.. So, the advice is to check the ingredient lists, see if companies have been ‘brave enough’ to carry out laboratory & clinical research on their ingredients/products, and even more importantly that they have been brave enough to submit these data for peer-review scrutiny in the academic literature. If they have, then they are probable worthy of your attention.